Resort golf means different things to different golfers. Some only go for the golf. Some enjoy the amenities. Others need room to spread out and live life in a variety of ways. Comparing Bandon Dunes to Sea Island is a difficult task.
For those of you interested in the golf only, I have to admit up front I was not a fan of links golf, as represented by many courses throughout the country. However, I can honestly say, I never really played true links golf until going to Bandon Dunes. I am here to tell you that nothing throughout the rest of the United States even approximates “links golf.”
Describing the difference between the ocean setting, with shifting sands beneathyour feet, the consistent, usually cool breeze, and the rough fortified with impenetrable gorse, versus the typical treeless setting others try to market as links golf proves elusive to divulge. At Bandon, specifically Bandon Dunes, and Pacific Dunes course, as well as the Old MacDonald course scheduled to open in Spring of 2010 (which I was able to play ten of 18 holes in a preview), when you step on the tee and gaze upon the expansive hole laid out before you, you immediately are transported to Scotland, the home of golf. It is not hard to believe that the flight and drive to the resort has somehow magically whisked you away to the land of single malt scotch and haggis.
Somehow, Pacific Dunes is ranked highest of the 4 courses at Bandon Resort. No doubt because of the spectacular views of the ocean, and the number of holes that border the ocean. If Old MacDonald had even one hole that bordered the ocean, it would surely surpass Pacific as the top course at BandonResort. I enjoyed the way the greens were treated as an extension of the fairway, with no grass changes at all. The only difference between the greens and the fairways are about a quarter of an inch in height. It truly invites you to learn the techniques of links golf, including putting from 60-70 YARDS away, or a punch and run shot some 150 yards from the pin.
Walking BandonDunes with a caddie at your side invites the golfer to dream of a more peaceful time in the past. Since carts are not allowed at Bandon Resort, it is best to use a caddie. In fact, a caddie is nearly a necessity as you make the loop just to find your way from green to tee. At times BandonResort employs over 400 caddies. With so many available, you may not get a knowledgeable caddie. However, during my stay, I was treated to an 8 year veteran at Bandon who definitely knew the game of golf as played on the Oregon coast.
Bandon does things right, by assigning you one caddie during your entire stay. This allows the caddie to get comfortable with the players game, and the golfer to trust the caddie’s advice. Upon arriving at the course the second day, I was pleased to see “my” caddie Jim waiting at the first tee.
By day three, I was excited to play links golf, which surprised me. As a tried and true mountain golfer from New England, links golf always seemed too flat and open. However, links golf at Bandon Resort is anything but flat and open. By contrast the Seaside course at Sea Island Resort has a few interesting holes, on the water. The Sea Island courses are challenging and sometimes even exciting to play, but do not compare to the Bandon courses. Score one for Bandon Dunes.
At Sea Island you can use a fore caddie, which is helpful, but does not even come close to having a personal caddie. Also, the fore caddies I used at Sea Island seemed to be uninspired by their jobs. Perhaps this was colored by the fact I was at Sea Island during off season. The occupancy rate at The Cloister and The Lodge during my stay was 7%. This left the courses wide open for play. I only saw other golfers on the course when I wasn’t on it! If you want to feel like you have the entire course to yourself, Sea Island gives you that chance, in relatively nice weather during the off season.
One thing I found great at both resorts were the practice areas. The Sea Island Resort practice area has a wonderful chipping area. The short game is often neglected, or treated as an afterthought at a majority of practice areas. Since the short game is where the scoring happens, more time should be spent practicing these shots instead of on the driving range. Sea Island has the nicest bunker complex of the two resorts, by far. However, Bandon likes to tell you they make up for it, by allowing you access to Shorty’s, their 9 hole par 3 course within the practice area. Holes 1 & 2 are always available, but the rest of the course is sometimes closed (most of the time while I was there). I would call these part’s of the resorts a wash, but if pressed I would probably lean more toward Sea Island’s practice area, since it is more conveniently located than Bandon’s practice area, which is a bus ride away from all of the courses.
Each of Bandon’s courses has a separate clubhouse. This is nice in some ways, especially if you are running late for your tee time. However, none of the clubhouses are spectacular in any way. By contrast, Sea Island’s clubhouse and locker room facilities are a wonder to behold. Entering the men’s locker room at Sea Island let’s you see how the other half lives! With fine wood paneling, post and beam construction, hanging crystal chandeliers and what undoubtedly is over 100 lockers, this is only the start of the refinements. A fully stocked and staffed bar, multiple fireplaces, a separate cigar room overlooking the course, as well as linen covered dining tables are in the main portion of the locker room. Delve further back and you will find showers, whirlpools, and more. Stay after the round, and have lunch served to you in the locker room. It may not sound appealing at first, but it rivals the men’s clubs in days past as a way to pass the time and relax. Sea Island is definitely the winner in this category.
Fine dining can be found at both sites. Since I enjoy fine dining, I partook of these opportunities at both sites. Sea Island does have formal dining at Colt & Allison’s, requiring a jacket. At Bandon casual attire is still OK at all of their restaurants.
The wine list at Bandon is filled with wines from the Willamette Valley, as well as other regions of the world. The Oregon wines are definitely fine wines, especially when ordering something of the Pinot variety. Or go into the town of Bandon and experience the local flavors. Coastal seafood can be had very cheaply.
Sea Island has better food overall, with Colt & Allison’s delivering strong with dry-aged beef on the menu. Steak lovers rejoice. The ambiance at Sea Island gives them an edge, with a bagpiper playing in the distance as the sun sets. You can head to the outdoor deck and have a drink as you watch the bagpiper in his kilt and who knows what else, while waiting for your dinner reservation.
Sea Island also scores mightilyon the accommodations. At The Lodge you are treated to your own personal butler on call 24 hours a day. Cookies and milk are delivered to your door nightly. If you take your sweetheart, the butler will even draw up a rose petal bath for her to enjoy. The rooms all overlook some part of the golf course, and are extremely spacious.
At Bandon, we stayed at the Lily Pond, which are some of the cheaper accommodations there. Still they were adequate and somewhat spacious. They were warm in the prime season, offering a small portable fan to cool you down. Each ro0m had a fireplace, which undoubtedly would take the chill off in cooler, wetter months. Deer sometimes greeted me at the door upon my return home. In fact deer were plentiful throughout the resort and especially on the golf courses.
Nightlife in the surrounding areas is practically non-existent. Be prepared to entertain yourself with a game of cards, a few stories at the 19th hole, or with simple walks on the surrounding grounds. Those of you looking for something else to do, are better off in other resorts throughout the country.
Both resorts offer unlimited golf, with multiple courses available. Sea Island has an unlimited golf package which is very reasonable during the off season. I believe Bandon has a policy of first round full price, second round half price, all other rounds free in a day. If you want to play 54 a day, have at it!
If you are into total golf immersion, with some of the nicest courses you can ever play, Bandon is the top choice. If you want more from your golf vacation, with lasting memories, Sea Island earns it’s #1 ranking.
). The course drained well, and the greens sped up over the back nine. Finished strong with a par, winning 2 skins at the last hole. Still lost to Bob, who was playing well. So was Roy, but his skin total was only 1! That was surprising.
